Touring Cape Breton and driving the Cabot trail was next on my travel plan. Nova Scotia roads were finally open after Hurricane Fiona and there were no gas station line ups according to the news. They were still reporting damage and power outrages so I cautiously headed into this Atlantic Canadian province. I did not want to get in the way of any rescue or cleanup. Driving through Pugwash, Tatangouche areas towards New Glasgow I was shocked by all the damage along the highway.
Have you ever played pick up sticks? Sticks are dropped and they fall criss crossed on top of each other; this is what the forests looked liked. Huge trees were blown over and toppled on top of each other. It was very sad to see and I could only imagine how frightening it was for the people in this area when this was happening. I was stopped several times by electrical crews and military convoys restoring power lines on this 100 km stretch of road.
Two of my potential ioverlander night spots were not accessible due to closed roads so I decided to stay at the Walmart in New Glasgow. Seeing this damage from Hurricane Fiona I was very grateful I was in New Brunswick when it hit.
Cabot Trail
Cape Breton Island is at the eastern end of the Canadian province of Nova Scotia. This island is separated from Nova Scotia peninsula by the Strait of Canso and is joined to the mainland by the Canso Causeway.
Cabot trail is a roadway encircling the island and is known as one of the world’s most scenic drives. It is described as “rising from the sea and clinging to mountains, the 298-kilometre-long Cabot Trail is a winding mix of roadway, paths, stairs and stunning beauty that takes you from unreal ocean vistas to quaint fishing villages”
Where are the stunning views of Cape Breton?
The tourist brochure said the beginning of Cabot Trail started at Port Hawkesbury winding through small coastal villages along the coast and through forested areas. At first I was not overly impressed as all there was were trees lining the highway. Where are the expansive vistas? I realized I was on the central roadway not the coastal one so did a quick turn around back to the coastal road! My first night was spent near St Joseph du Moine at a rest stop overlooking the expansive ocean. I was blessed with one of the most stunning pink sunsets I have ever seen.
Ever changing weather in Cape Breton
The next day I reached Cape Breton Highlands National Park and now realized what all the talk of the “most scenic drive” was all about. I could not have picked a better day for this stunningly beautiful drive.
The sunshine and blue skies enhanced the expansive ocean views at every turn of this windy, sometime scary mountainous coastal road. The western side of the island had an absolute stunning drive. There was not a lot of traffic as I was travelling off season, which was great. I took advantage of the many pull outs along the road to take some stunning photos. I was easy to see why it is such a popular destination.
Just an hour later as I crested the top of the park and started heading down the eastern coast the heavens opened. The sunny blue skies on the western side of the park quickly turned into a major rainstorm and fog. Navigating the narrow mountain roads in the fog and heavy rain made for a nerve wracking drive. The only views were glimpses of rocky beaches. I very carefully drove down the mountain side finally arriving in Sydney feeling a bit frazzled. Atlantic coast weather, one minute sunny blue sky and the next rain and fog.
Should I head to Newfoundland?
I contemplated going over to Newfoundland. The ferry to Port Aux Basques, Newfoundland leaves from Sydney, Nova Scotia. It is a 6 – 8 hour trip depending on the weather and costs around $400 Canadian. It was now mid October, the night temperature was getting colder, the next week called for rain and Newfoundland had been hit hard by the hurricane. All of this helped me to decided against going to Newfoundland on this trip. I easily get seasick so rainy rough seas are not my jam either. I will come back in the spring or summer to experience Newfoundland.
Sydney is the historic capital of Cape Breton and the largest urban centre on the island. I enjoyed spending the day exploring the city. Needing a day to do some remote work I took advantage of their beautiful library as well. Driving back to Port Hawkesbury, I stopped off at a farmer’s market that I came across where I picked up a few gifts, veggies and enjoyed a little bagpipe music. It was a lovely way to end my spectacular road trip around Cape Breton and I was now on my way back to mainland Nova Scotia.
Where I stayed in Cape Breton
Oct 4 Walmart new Glasgow
Oct 5 Saint Joseph du Moine roadside pullout – Cabot trail
Oct 6 Walmart north Sydney
Oct 7 Walmart north Sydney