New Brunswick – Hurricane and Beaches

The lighthouse is on Miscou Island, New Brunswick.

Arrived in New Brunswick with warnings of hurricane Fiona about to hit the east coast of Canada.  Never being in this situation before I was not sure what to expect and was feeling a bit nervous.  My radio kept me up to date with the hurricane news.  I decided to stay put near Edmundston in the northwest of this Canadian province as this area was not on the danger list.  During my few days I toured several churches and spent some time in the beautiful library. 

With news of major damage, road closures, gas station line ups and many tourist attractions destroyed in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland I decided New Brunswick was the safest place to explore.  After deciding on a plan of action I headed south to scenic Grand Falls and then across the province through Mt. Carlton Provincial Park.

Van in a truck stop
Waiting out the hurricane in Edmunston
Road view
Driving across the province

Scenic East Coast

I reached the scenic coastal area near Dalhousie on the eastern side of the province.   The weather was still variable with lots of rain from the tail end of the hurricane.  I woke up to a stunning sunrise and went exploring.  Found a perfect spot to spend a few days right on the beach.

Eel River Bar Beach is considered to be one of the longest natural sand bars in the world.  This sand bar is very unique because it has fresh water on one side coming from the Eel River and salt water on the other side coming from the Bay of Chaleur.  Local walkers were friendly and said campers stayed the night all the time so I took advantage of this stunning area.  Relaxed on the beach, watched the birds and enjoyed both sunset and sunrise from my free camping spot.

Exploring the Acadian Peninsula

The news continued to be all about the major damage from the hurricane.  Wanting to stay away from the chaos of road closures, power outages and gas shortage I decided to explore the Acadian Peninsula.  This area had not sustained any damage.  I traveled the coastal road to Bathurst and then towards Caraquet. 

Every where I looked there were beautiful ocean vistas, beaches, fishing boats and rugged rock cliffs.  Also prominent was the Stella Maris flag, the French tricolour with a single star in the field of blue which represents this area. PIC. Explored more old churches.  Every community I drove through seemed to have a historical church. 

First night I stopped off a Stonehaven wharf for the night.  Went to sleep watching a spectacular sunset from the top of a rock cliff and waking up to an expansive view of the ocean.  I continued on the coastal highway to Bas-Caraquet where I stopped to do laundry and get some groceries. 

Through my ioverlander app I found another stunning beach spot to stay.  It was quiet, calm and a few locals came by to fish.  It was such a great spot I had to stay 2 nights exploring the beach and watching the amazing sunrises.

Next Stop Miscou Island

Next stop was Miscou Lighthouse, the northern most tip in New Brunswick.  Very remote, not the greatest cell service but an absolutely fascinating and beautiful area to explore.  I walked up 96 steps to the top of MIscou Lighthouse to take in the stunning ocean views and colourful peat dunes.  The history of the lighthouse and community was very interesting.  It was great to learn more about my wonderful country.  

A few miles from the lighthouse was St. Johns church which is the oldest church in the area having been built in 1903.  While exploring the grounds I met a local women who said only a few families still belong to the church which has services only a few times a year now.  I decided to stay by the church for the night.  

The day had been cool but sunny with very little wind.  Part way through the night I woke to my van shaking.  Pitch dark, ocean roaring and scary winds made for a pretty much sleepless rest of the night.  The next morning I had stunning blue skies with rumbling waves of the Atlantic ocean outside my door.

Heading South

Now heading south along Acadian Peninsula I stopped off at Hay island near Neguac.  Another beautiful free beach spot to spend the night with me waking to a beautiful sunrise, so many of these in this province!  Continued onto Miramichi and spent a day in Kouchibouguac National park.  

Kouchibouguac Park is on the east coast of the province.  It was established in 1969 to preserve a section of the Canadian Maritime Plain region.  The park includes barrier islands, sand dunes, lagoons, salt marshes and forests.  It provides habitats for at least 15 protected species.  I walked the 1/2 km boardwalk to Kelly’s beach enjoying the cranes along the way.  The beach is a 25 km (15.5 mile) golden sand dune beach.  An absolute  lovely spot to spend the afternoon.

Feet in the sand
Kouchibouguac National Park
Reflection of me in water
Boardwalk at Kouchibouguac National Park

New Brunswick Bay of Fundy

The Bay of Fundy is a 170 mile bay between the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.  It is an area of craggy cliffs, thundering waves, ecological wonders and known for having the highest tides in the world.  When I was there many of the big tourist spots like Hopewell Rocks were closed due to the hurricane damage.  I was able to explore the areas of Saint John and St Andrew.  Two beautiful coastal towns with so much history, beaches and ocean views to inspire anyone.  

Some locals did tell me New Brunswick is often known as the drive through province as many tourists head straight to Nova Scotia.  In my two weeks in New Brunswick I was inspired by my exploration of this interesting and beautiful province. 

View of ocean
Irvings Nature Park at St Johns
White van on the beach
Free camping on St Andrews beach

Where I stayed in New Brunswick

  • Sept 22 Edmunston Walmart
  • Sept 23 Edmunston Walmart
  • Sept 24 Edmunston Truck stop – pic
  • Sept 25 Cambellton Walmart
  • Sept 26 Dalhousie parking lot
  • Sept 27 Eel River Bar Beach near Dalhousie
  • Sept 28 Stonehaven
  • Sept 29 Pokesudie near Bas-Caraquet
  • Sept 30 Pokesudie near Bas-Caraquet
  • Oct 1 St John’s church on Miscou Island
  • Oct 2 Hay Island near Neguac
  • Oct 3 Mirachimi Walmart
  • Oct 19 Petrocan gas station near Port Elgin
  • Oct 20 Sussex Walmart
  • Oct 21 Harvest host – Witness Wellness in St John’s
  • Oct 22 Harvest host – Witness Wellness in St John’s
  • Oct 23 St. Andrews beach

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