PEI – Unexpected Surprise and Disappointment

3 pictures, one of confederation bridge, walkway at Green Gable Historical Park and Singing Sands Beach with a golden coloured background.

Prince Edward Island gave me an unexpected surprise and some disappointment.  PEI is the smallest Canadian province only 280 km (173 miles) long located in the Atlantic Canadian maritime region. This island is accessible from either Nova Scotia or New Brunswick, Canada.  I crossed from Caribou, Nova Scotia  on the Northumberland Ferry to Woods Island, PEI.  The ferry crossing was 75 minutes and was free.  

There was a lot of damage from Hurricane Fiona on this island and knowing some sights were closed I wanted to experience what I could on this island.  The tourist bureau was closed when I arrived, not sure if this was due to being off-season or the hurricane.  I was disappointed as I like to stop off and get information about an area from the locals. 

Finding a place to stay

It was getting fairly late in the day and I searched out two different ioverlander stops but both were blocked off due to road and beach damage.  I finally found a Harvest Host that was available.  Galla Design Studio was so accommodating.  The road was very dark when I arrived and GPS did not work in the area so Trish the host was out at the the end of her driveway with a flashlight directing me in!  So lovely for her to go that extra mile for me.

The next morning I woke up to a stunning view looking back towards Nova Scotia.  The host was a small working farm with goats and a small gallery where they sold local handmade crafts. It was a perfect place to stay and I spent 2 nights at this location.

For my first day I toured the eastern part to the island.  Drove by potato fields, visited a couple lighthouses and stopped off at Singing Sands beach.  “Singing Sands” is a nickname for Basin Head Provincial Park located in Basin Head.  The name comes from the pure white sand that “sings” when stepped on, due to a high silica content. This sand is geologically unique to the area.  I wasn’t sure if I believed it; I am now a believer!

Delicious Unexpected Surprise

My second day was exploring Charlottetown, the capital of this province.  I arrived early and enjoyed the small town feel as I did a walkabout along the harbour and through the town centre.  This city is filled with beautiful stone buildings and is home to the Victorian government buildings and the modern Confederation Centre of Arts.  They celebrate Halloween!  There were straw filled figures hanging out at each corner, so creative and fun to see.

Coming across a kiosk that served gluten free fish & chips made my visit even more memorable.  These are pretty much impossible to find so I thoroughly enjoyed eating this unexpected surprise. 

Some Disappointments

PEI has 1100 km (683 miles) of beaches, unfortunately the popular sights of Cavendish Beach, Brackley Beach and Prince Edward Island National park were closed due the damage from Hurricane Fiona.  I missed seeing the sand dunes, beaches and sandstone cliffs that these areas are known for. 

The rainy weather was not very cooperative for beach time anyway so I explored the rural roads along the northwestern part of the province.  There were a lot of trees down and the destruction from the hurricane was still very evident.

road with clouds in the distance and trees along either side
Rainy drive along northern island roads
house fallen down
Hurricane Fiona damage

A Canadian Treasure

Green Gables was one sight open and I absolutely enjoyed touring Anne of Green Gables house, grounds and museum.  Green Gables Heritage Place is a 19th century farm and literary landmark in Cavendish, Prince Edward Island, Canada.  This historical sight tells the story of both the author, L.M. Montgomery, and her most famous heroine Anne Shirley.  I enjoyed the house tour, fabulous wallpaper and the history of this Canadian treasure.

I ended my day in Summerside, the second largest city in the province and the primary service centre for the western part of the province.  A lovely harbour town.   PEI is known for its lobster and mussels.  The lobster was out of season so it was not available but I did enjoy a big plate of mussels and a delicious glass of wine for my dinner. 

Getting off the island

bridge over the ocean
Confederation Bridge

I had heard so many great things about PEI before arriving.  My 3 days on the island were lovely, however the rainy weather, time of year and closed sights were not in my favour to experience the best of this province.  I will definitely plan another trip back to explore more.

The island is connected to the mainland by the 12.9 km ( 8 miles) Confederation Bridge.  It begins in Bordon-Carleton, PEI and ends in Cape Jouriman, New Brunswick.  The ferry to come across was free but then I had to pay to get off the island.  Fares to the island are a round trip and only collected when departing the island.  I saved about 40% by coming over on the ferry and leaving by the bridge, yeh for my budget.

Wind can be a factor when crossing the Confederation Bridge especially for a hightop van like mine.  There was some wind, but I made it safely across the bridge but to New Brunswick where I continued my roadtrip into Maine, USA.

Where I stayed on Prince Edward Island (PEI)

  • Oct 16, 17 harvest host Galla design studio 
  • Oct 18 Summerside Walmart

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